Shoe Constructions - Investment Footwear

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Fast Fashion is a contemporary term used for designers to capture current fashion trends. Collections are based on recent fashion trends, which are produced rapidly resulting in mass production.

Slow fashion refers to products that are made by hand, take time to produce, use artistic talent with the use of superior finishes and materials. “Slow fashion “is not your typical season fashion trends. It’s a movement that is steadily gaining momentum and is here to stay.

Movements in fashion are of importance, the intricate detailing separates the two. Footwear constructions play an important role in the development of artisinal makers and mass market makers. Mass market brands develop footwear using cement constructions which is the cheapest & most common way to sole a shoe. High street fashion brands often disguise their footwear also using the cement construction, also known as the “stuck on” construction. This quick method prevents the re soling of shoes and often peels away from the upper. Once the shoes come away their completely ruined.

In this blog we’ll be going through in detail what to look for and what to avoid. Handcrafted footwear use traditional constructions which have been used and proven year upon year.

Explore our exclusive edit on handcrafted constructions.

"It's totally impossible to be well dressed in cheap shoes,"

Goodyear Welted Construction

A Goodyear welted shoe is the oldest and most traditional technique when making handcrafted footwear. A Goodyear welt is a strip of leather that is sewn around the bottom edge of a shoe, attached to both the insole and the upper. This form of construction can be replaced time after time and is considered the longest lasting construction. Preventi, one of the first brands that have been with us since opening in one of Melbourne’s laneways only use Goodyear welts. The detailing with their soft hides and constructions is one to keep an eye on when stepping into one of our boutiques.

Rapid Blake Construction

The construction between a Goodyear welted shoe and a Blake construction. A method where the stitching of a Blake is combined with the extra midsole of the Goodyear. A robust construction, the Blake construction is typically used as a sign of durability. Shoto, Mattia Capezzani, Lemargo and Pantanetti are perfect examples of this combining beautiful hides with a rapid blake construction. A comfortable construction which gives you the confidence that your footwear will last the test of time. Shop in confidence knowing you’ll be able to re sole these shoes time after time.

Sacchetto Construction

If you’ve ever tried a pair of loafers or ballerina flats you’ve more than likely felt what a sacchetto construction feels like. Sacchetto an Italian word for small purse or sack is one of the most comfortable constructions you will experience. An old traditional technique by artisanal manufactures in which only a select few 3^rd generation brands like Elia Maurizi, Ink, Lorenna Paggi and Pantanetti are able to do. The insole and lining are sewn together by hand; the inner lining is then sewn together with the upper before shaping the last. The final touch involves a shock absorbing layer which is stitched between the saccheto lining and sole. As you can see it’s an old technique and if you have never tried a pair of sacchetto construction footwear, do yourself a favour and head to one of our 124 boutiques and experience comfort like never before.

Blake Construction

A Blake construction is one of the more commonly used constructions. The upper is wrapped around the insole and attached to the outsole. A single stitch attaches it all together holding the upper to the outer sole. A blake stitching is easy to recognize and can be recognized by placing your index finger inside the shoe or the outside of the shoe and you should feel a stitch. More commonly used by artisan manufacturers it provides comfort and durability as they can be re soled time after time. Your feet will thank you as moisture will not build up and you’ll be able to wear your footwear in confidence. When stepping into boutiques look for Conflict for Interest, Poema & Crispiniano.

Vulcanized Construction

Vulcanized also known as composition rubber is the most versatile of sole materials. Rubbery in nature having elasticity, flexibility, grip and acquired by most good quality trainers. Your common trainers are made with a cement construction which involves putting a layer of cement and sticking the upper to the sole. A vulcanized rubber sole lasts the test of time, a proven formula and provides you with a more stable shoe on your feet. High street fashion brand will fool you into think their vulcanized, when in truth their cement constructions. Shop with confidence as all trainers in 124 boutiques are vulcanized ensuring you get the most out of your trainers. Shop Primabase, Ghoud and Conflict for Interest trainers in confidence, available in all boutiques and online.

Movements in fashion play a vital role in the way artisan craftsman go about their everyday business. The Slow fashion movement is one that looks at the oldest of constructions and ensures their not a dying art. Reading this blog gives you the insight into constructions and what to look for and what to avoid.

If you would like more insight into any construction please visit one of our 124 boutiques where one of our friendly staff will answer your question.

124……handmade shoes not for the ordinary